Friday, October 11, 2013

Ruins of Acrotiri, Santorini Island

Yassas!  I've fallen in love with my tiny little hotel room on Santorini and so, have decided to stay 2 nights more. I love the black sand beach here, the pool, the island... so I'm prolonging my stay!

For those of you who've been reading my blog, you know by now that Santorini used to be a round island that erupted in a violent cataclysm around 3,600 years ago. In fact, it was one of the biggest explosions Earth has ever seen; China wrote about black smoke blocking out the sun and rumbling noises were recorded in Bronze Age Switzerland and Spain.

In 1967, excavations began on a large city called Akrotiri; God knows how anyone knew to start digging there.  Remember the Minoans from the Palace of Knossos on Crete? Archaeologists in Akrotiri have uncovered their houses, streets, markets, plazas, three-storied buildings, walls measuring over 8 meters in height, stone staircases and sidewalks, even sewer systems, clay pipes and toilets installed on 2nd or 3rd floors in their homes... Those toilets and water pipes are the oldest such utilities ever discovered; the Minoans even used geothermic double pipes for their hot water. My little hotel here doesn't always have hot water!

All the houses had wall paintings and frescoes (fresco means fresh: the paint is applied while the plaster is still wet, ensuring longer-lasting, brighter colors). It worked well; the colors are still bright 3,600 years later.

Plato's famous descriptions of the legendary lost city/continent of Atlantis strongly resemble the city of Akrotiri -- many people I met here believe that the Minoan culture inspired the legends of Atlantis. Regardless, this was a very wealthy city before it was perfectly preserved and entombed under meters of volcanic ash. Then, 4000 years later, scientists started showing up with their dust brushes.  

This stuff fascinates me and I've watched countless documentaries on the mysteries of Akrotiri. I was happy to be here today. I took pics of the excavation sight and of the frescoes, which were in a nearby museum. Here's a sneak peek for any of you who might be interested.

In this 2-storied house was found the double-walled painting named Spring Fresco (below). They also found wooden furniture and kitchen utensils, as well as a double-horned symbol that was carved over the main entrance.

Spring Fresco. When archaeologists find these paintings, they are not still on the walls. They have been shattered from the earthquake and lie broken in a thousand bits on the floor, which scientists must then piece back together over years and years, like a complex jigsaw puzzle. 

Hard to tell what we're looking at here, but it's a few houses still buried under volcanic ash. The pit  in the forefront of the photo is another partly-dug room.

This was a two-storied building, housing many large clay storage jars (pithoi). 

They found remains of oil, grains and wine in these pithoi.

The House of the Ladies, named after the fresco that was found in it. This house was 3-storied and had a sky well (sky light), as well as two different staircases.

'The Ladies' fresco, also called 'Adorants' because it looks as though they are on a pilgrimage of sorts.


This lady has a shaved head (painted blue) with two black tresses hanging down her back. She is exquisitely dressed and is wearing fine jewelry.
 

This woman, with a full head of hair, is tired and weary from travel and is resting what is possibly a sore or injured foot. 
                         

Et voilà!  A second-floor toilet.

The house with the 2nd-storied toilet, which you can see at the back left.

Stone staircase shattered by the earthquake

The huge, 3-storied West House. A few frescoes like 'Young Priestess', 'Fisherman' and 'Miniature Frieze' were found in this house.

'Fisherman' with bald head (blue) and two tresses, holding dolphin-fish (mahi-mahi).

Young Priestess holding incense, dressed in saffron robe. She has a bald (blue) head and is wearing a serpent crown.

Miniature Frieze. The frieze itself isn't miniature, but is filled with miniature glimpses of life in Minoan times

Miniature Frieze -- a departure of sorts.

Miniature Frieze -- shipwreck or naval battle.

Young boys (painted the usual red) rowing the massive boats

Dolphins at play 

Domestic life in Akrotiri

Massive stone pillars holding up the West House's 2nd storey

The Beta House, where the 'Boxing Boys' fresco was found, as well as 'Blue Monkeys'.

Boxing Boys

Blue Monkeys

Another two-storied home

'Nature' frieze, depicting a river birds, ducks, jackals, trees, even a griffin

A griffin (lion's body, tail and feet with eagle's head and wings), a sacred animal to the Minoans


All the colors that the Minoans used in their wall paintings were taken from mineral or plant sources.  They used mostly reds, blues and yellows, with a smattering of browns and oranges. Strangely enough, the color green is completely absent from their frescoes, despite the abundancy of green minerals/plants at their disposal. For example, the following wall painting, 'The Saffron Gatherer' takes place in a green field, but they use browns and yellows to depict it.

When Akrotiri was discovered in 1967, it was the archaeological find of the century-- the stuff these guys dream of ! It is interesting to note that no human skeletons or remains have ever been found here, indicating that there was an evacuation before the volcano blew, with little or no loss of life. However, only a small corner of the southernmost part of the village has been excavated; about 90% of the village remains entombed. Perhaps the villagers assembled uphill in fear of a tsunami, to be discovered by future digs...

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